{"id":30183,"date":"2024-10-21T15:24:31","date_gmt":"2024-10-21T12:24:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/?p=30183"},"modified":"2024-10-25T10:22:59","modified_gmt":"2024-10-25T07:22:59","slug":"pelerinaj-la-moscova-prin-tbilisi-si-suzdal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/pelerinaj-la-moscova-prin-tbilisi-si-suzdal\/","title":{"rendered":"Pelerinaj la Moscova. Prin Tbilisi \u0219i Suzdal"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong><span style=\"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;\">\u00cen seara de duminic\u0103, 6 octombrie, aeroportul nostru din Chi\u0219in\u0103u a fost arhiplin de evrei hasidici veni\u021bi de la Umani, a\u0219tept\u00e2ndu-\u0219i avioanele. Noi, preo\u021bii moldoveni, am trecut, o zic cu un pic de remu\u0219care, aproape neobserva\u021bi printre mul\u021bimea zgomotoas\u0103 \u0219i pitoreasc\u0103 ai acestor pelerini, \u00een care nu am observat deloc parte feminin\u0103. Mi-am adus aminte c\u0103 Baal \u0218em Tov, fondatorul curentului hasidic al iudaismului, s-a n\u0103scut la grani\u021ba cu Moldova, \u0219i un citat de-al s\u0103u m-a pus c\u00e2ndva mult pe g\u00e2nduri (\u201eca s\u0103-l sco\u021bi din glod pe un apropiat al t\u0103u, trebuie \u0219i tu s\u0103 intri \u00een glod\u201d \u2013 \u00ab\u0447\u0442\u043e\u0431\u044b \u0432\u044b\u0442\u0430\u0449\u0438\u0442\u044c \u0438\u0437 \u0433\u0440\u044f\u0437\u0438 \u0441\u0435\u0431\u0435 \u043f\u043e\u0434\u043e\u0431\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e, \u043d\u0443\u0436\u043d\u043e \u0441\u0430\u043c\u043e\u043c\u0443 \u0441\u0442\u0443\u043f\u0438\u0442\u044c \u0432 \u0433\u0440\u044f\u0437\u044c\u00bb).<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Escala la <strong>Tbilisi<\/strong> a fost la locul s\u0103u. Sub un soare aproape tropical, dar pl\u0103cut tomnatic, am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ne plimb\u0103m prin ora\u0219 \u0219i s\u0103 vizit\u0103m Catedrala Sfintei Treimi. Imensitatea ei uluie\u0219te pe orice preot nec\u0103l\u0103torit prin catedre patriarhale. Soborul cu zece prestoale mai este \u00eenconjurat de trei biserici \u0219i o teras\u0103 de piatr\u0103 ce deschide o frumoas\u0103 panoram\u0103 asupra ora\u0219ului. \u00cen ea se p\u0103streaz\u0103 mai multe relicve georgiene (\u00een special icoane). \u0218i este una din cele mai \u00eenalte \u0219i largi biserici ortodoxe din lume.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Dup\u0103 aceea, am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ne \u00eenchin\u0103m \u0219i \u00een vechea Catedral\u0103 a ora\u0219ului (numit\u0103 <em>Sioni<\/em>) a Adormirii Maicii Domnului, cea mai important\u0103 biseric\u0103 din capitala Georgiei, unde se p\u0103strez\u0103 Crucea din lemn de vi\u021b\u0103-de-vie a Sfintei Nina cea \u00eentocmai cu Apostolii \u0219i lumin\u0103toarea Georgiei.<\/p>\n<p>Plasat pe un relief deosebit, Tbilisi este un ora\u0219 vechi, dar delicat, prietenos \u0219i pestri\u021b. O privire mai atent\u0103 \u0219i \u00eendelungat\u0103 ar deschide noi orizonturi \u0219i privele\u0219ti, pe care, cu p\u0103rere de r\u0103u, din lips\u0103 de timp, nu am reu\u0219it s\u0103 le avem. Aceast\u0103 scurt\u0103 \u0219i superficial\u0103 excursiune gruzin\u0103 am \u00eencheiat-o cu un pahar de vin local la o por\u021bie de <em>hincali<\/em> (un fel de \u201ecol\u021buna\u0219i\u201d georgieni).<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">*\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *<\/p>\n<p>Zborul nordic ne-a adus \u00een spa\u021biul imens al Aeroportului moscovit Vnucovo. Obosi\u021bi, fl\u0103m\u00e2nzi, dar entuziasma\u021bi, am fost \u00eent\u00e2lni\u021bi \u0219i petrecu\u021bi la o cin\u0103 bogat\u0103 din imediata apropiere a aeroportului. A doua zi, urma s\u0103 plec\u0103m organizat spre <strong>Serghiev Posad<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>Venirea noastr\u0103 a coincis cu s\u0103rb\u0103torirea Sf\u00e2ntului Cuvios Serghie de Radonej, patronul cunoscutei Lavre a Sfintei Treimi. Adormirea acestui sf\u00e2nt, \u00eentemeietor al unei din cele mai cunoscute m\u0103n\u0103stiri ruse\u0219ti, a fost cinstit\u0103 prin Liturghie praznic\u0103l\u0103, condus\u0103 de c\u0103tre Sanctitatea Sa, Patriarhul Chiril, \u00een Biserica Adormirii Maicii Domnului. Dar \u0219i prin Liturghii concomitente \u00een toate bisericile lavrei.<\/p>\n<p>Pentru prima dat\u0103 am v\u0103zut \u0219i eu aceast\u0103 minunat\u0103 m\u0103n\u0103stire. De\u0219i ploi\u021ba a r\u0103corit atmosfera \u0219i a limitat mi\u0219carea, totu\u0219i c\u0103ldura slujbei divine, mul\u021bimea de pelerini \u0219i frumuse\u021bea ansamblului arhitectural al str\u0103vechiului a\u0219ez\u0103m\u00e2nt mult m-a \u00eenc\u00e2ntat. Am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ma \u00eenchin la raclele c\u00e2torva sfin\u021bi (cuvio\u0219ii Maxim Grecul \u0219i Antonie de la Radonej) \u0219i s\u0103 iau binecuv\u00e2ntare de la vl\u0103dica Tihon (\u0218evkunov). Timpul foarte limitat a fost unica problema a acestui pelerinaj, dar vorba ceea: \u201e\u0441\u043f\u0430\u0441\u0438\u0431\u043e \u0438 \u043d\u0430 \u044d\u0442\u043e\u043c sau \u0445\u043e\u0440\u043e\u0448\u0435\u0433\u043e \u043f\u043e\u043d\u0435\u043c\u043d\u043e\u0436\u043a\u0443\u201d. Dup\u0103 un pr\u00e2nz festiv am plecat pentru c\u00e2teva ore la \u00centreprinderea <strong>Sofrino<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">*\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *<\/p>\n<p>\u00cen seara zilei deja ajunsesem la <strong>Suzdal<\/strong>, or\u0103\u0219el din str\u0103vechea regiune a Vladimirului. Drumul p\u00e2n\u0103 aici a durat trei ore, \u00een acest timp am resim\u021bit imensitatea spa\u021biului rusesc, p\u0103durea cu cei mai \u00eenal\u021bi mesteceni \u0219i drumurile netede mi-au atras \u00eendeosebi aten\u021bia. Suzdalul avea s\u0103 fie centrul pelerinajului nostru rusesc. Lucru inedit, c\u0103ci din c\u00e2te am \u00een\u021beles niciun grup de preo\u021bi venit \u00een d\u0103\u021bile precedente nu au avut o asemenea ocazie, de a vedea unul din cele mai vechi ora\u0219e ale Rusiei.<\/p>\n<p>Se zice c\u0103 acest or\u0103\u0219el are 9 km p\u0103tra\u021bi, \u0219i e cel mai mic din cunoscutul Inel de Aur. Aflat pe malul r\u00e2ului Camenca, este un imens muzeu \u00een aer liber. Neindustrializat, mult ornamentat, cu propriul s\u0103u Kremlin, \u0219i foarte bogat \u00een vechi biserici \u0219i m\u0103n\u0103stiri. Printre altele, nicio cas\u0103 nu \u00eentrece \u00een\u0103l\u021bimea bisericilor, acest fapt chiar este reglamentat de legisla\u021bia local\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>O zi \u00eentreag\u0103 am petrecut \u00een acest or\u0103\u0219el, cutreier\u00e2ndu-l c\u00e2nd pe jos, c\u00e2nd cu autobuzul, \u00eempreun\u0103 cu un ghid profesionist, tehnic bine echipat. Am vizitat biserici de tot felul, care mai mici, care mai mari, toate purt\u00e2nd o puternic\u0103 amprent\u0103 temporal\u0103 a ve\u0219niciei, un stil deosebit \u0219i un colorit original. Nu sunt specialist \u00een a descrie aceste monumente ale m\u0103iestriei divino-umane, totu\u0219i inima asimte bucuria \u00eentr-un mod deosebit de abia dup\u0103 p\u0103r\u0103sirea acestor locuri sfinte, cu ajutorul dorului \u0219i contempl\u0103rii ulterioare.<\/p>\n<p>Am mai fost \u00eenvrednici\u021bi s\u0103 slujim un moleben bilingv cu Mitropolitul Tihon (de Vladimir \u0219i Suzdal) \u00eempreun\u0103 cu vladica nostru Nicolae (de Cead\u00e2r-Lunga), chiar de ziua onomastic\u0103 a mitropolitului, \u00een Catedrala Schimb\u0103rii la Fa\u021b\u0103 a M\u00e2ntuitorului unde se afl\u0103 racla (care a fost deschis\u0103 spre \u00eenchinare special pentru grupul nostru de preo\u021bi) a Sf\u00e2ntului Cuvios Eftimie de Suzdal. Canonizat \u00een 1549, \u0219i probabil cel mai cunoscut \u0219i important sf\u00e2nt al ora\u0219ului Suzdal (\u00eempreun\u0103 cu Sf\u00e2nta Cuvioasa Eufrosina de Suzdal), moa\u0219tele c\u0103ruia au avut peregrin\u0103ri nefaste pe timpul bol\u0219evicilor.<\/p>\n<p>Biserica aceasta face parte dintr-un complex monastic (\u0421\u043f\u0430\u0441\u043e-\u0415\u0432\u0444\u0438\u043c\u0438\u0435\u0432 \u043c\u043e\u043d\u0430\u0441\u0442\u044b\u0440\u044c) care a fost c\u00e2ndva o \u00eenchisoare important\u0103 din regiune. Printre altele aici \u0219i-a \u00eenceput activitatea de stare\u021b (\u043d\u0430\u0441\u0442\u043e\u044f\u0442\u0435\u043b\u044c) al m\u0103n\u0103stirii \u2013 Sfin\u021bitul Mucenic Serafim Ciceagov (+1938), care urma s\u0103 ajung\u0103 episcop al Chi\u0219in\u0103ului \u0219i Hotinului (1908-1914) \u0219i care face parte, deci, din Soborul Sfin\u021bilor Ocrotitori ai Moldovei.<\/p>\n<p>Mi-a atras o aten\u021bie deosebit\u0103 Biserica Na\u0219terii Maicii Domnului din Kremlinul suzdalez, locul de \u00eenhumare a cnejilor \u0219i \u00eenal\u021bilor ierarhi ai ora\u0219ului, o adev\u0103rat\u0103 bijuterie arhitectonic\u0103 din secolul XIII. Cupolele albastre sunt \u00eemp\u00e2nzite de 365 de stele galbene. Interiorul este acoperit cu fresce str\u0103vechi de o uluitoare frumuse\u021be. Iconostasul este impun\u0103tor, U\u0219ile \u00eemp\u0103r\u0103te\u0219ti \u00eempreun\u0103 cu icoanele dimprejur \u00ee\u021bi dau impresia unui foc arz\u00e2nd \u00een v\u00e2rful a trei lum\u00e2n\u0103ri. Slujba \u00een biseric\u0103 se face \u00een timpul marilor s\u0103rb\u0103tori, \u00een rest intrarea este cu plat\u0103, de\u0219i preo\u021bii pot intra liber, posibilitate de care m-am folosit \u0219i eu. La final o scurt\u0103 durere m-a str\u0103fulgerat, c\u00e2nd am realizat c\u0103 probabil nu voi mai vedea aceast\u0103 minunat\u0103 biseric\u0103 \u00een aceast\u0103 via\u021b\u0103 scurt\u0103. Dar s\u0103-i d\u0103m Bunului Dumnezeu o mare de mul\u021bumire chiar \u0219i pentru o pic\u0103tur\u0103 de frumuse\u021be contemplat\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>\u00cen multe biserici ne-am \u00eenchinat, \u00een multe am f\u0103cut probe fonice prin c\u00e2nt\u0103ri de m\u0103rimuri \u0219i tropare, condu\u0219i de frumosul glas al lui vladica nostru Nicolae. \u00cen multe biserici nu am reu\u0219it s\u0103 intr\u0103m, din cauza timpului limitat. Dac\u0103 nu gre\u0219esc, \u00een or\u0103\u0219elul Suzdal sunt 5 m\u0103n\u0103stiri, dintre care 4 sunt active; de\u0219i este cunoscut pentru ale sale 40 de biserici, 15 dintre ele au fost distruse de bol\u0219evici. Faptul concentr\u0103rii at\u00e2tor biserici pe un teritoriu at\u00e2t de \u00eengust mi-a adus aminte de or\u0103\u0219elul vechi Nesebr din Bulgaria, care la fel este cunoscut pentru ale sale 40 de biserici, de\u0219i multe din ele au disp\u0103rut, iar cele r\u0103mase au fost transformate \u00een muzee \u0219i deci sunt inactive din punct de vedere liturgic, \u00een afar\u0103 de o singur\u0103 biseric\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>\u00cen rest, repet, arhitectura caselor de locuit este strict reglamentat\u0103 de legisla\u021bia local\u0103. Majoritatea sunt \u0219i ele opere de art\u0103, cu mult\u0103 sculptur\u0103 \u00een lemn \u0219i ornamente halucinante. Nu au mai mult de dou\u0103 etaje. Cea mai veche cas\u0103 dateaz\u0103 din secolul 17. Multe cafenele, magazine de suveniruri \u0219i cai \u00eenh\u0103ma\u021bi pentru plimb\u0103ri.<\/p>\n<p>Dup\u0103 cin\u0103, am reu\u0219it s\u0103 ies cu un p\u0103rinte la o plimbare pe strada central\u0103 din ora\u0219, care spre scurta noastr\u0103 nedumerire mai poart\u0103 numele liderului proletariatului mondial (al c\u0103rui monument falnic, dar neiluminat, se \u00eenal\u021b\u0103 \u00een Pia\u021ba Ro\u0219ie a or\u0103\u0219elului). Suzdalul nocturn are \u0219i el un farmec, probabil legat de perioada neturistic\u0103, deci lini\u0219tit\u0103, a anului. Din curiozitate am intrat \u00een magazinul <em>\u041f\u044f\u0442\u0451\u0440\u043e\u0447\u043a\u0430<\/em>, \u0219i el incadrat atent, neprovocator \u0219i minimalist \u00een peisajul urban. Am comparat pre\u021burile, \u00een primul r\u00e2nd la lactate, \u0219i am dedus c\u0103 pre\u021burile sunt mai mici dec\u00e2t la noi (cu vreo 5-7 lei pentru un litru de lapte gras). Din curiozitate am c\u0103utat s\u0103 v\u0103d dac\u0103 sunt vinuri din Moldova \u2013 nu am g\u0103sit deloc (de\u0219i georgiene c\u00e2te vrei). La ie\u0219irea din magazin am intrat \u00een vorb\u0103 cu ni\u0219te tineri localnici, care s-au mirat s\u0103 vad\u0103 doi preo\u021bi plimb\u00e2ndu-se noaptea prin ora\u0219. Printre altele, ei ne-au povestit c\u0103 ora\u0219ul de obicei este aglomerat de turi\u0219ti, mai ales pe timp de var\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>Am \u00eentrebat din interes un taximetrist c\u00e2t m-ar costa s\u0103 ajung cu el p\u00e2n\u0103 la Biserica Pocrov de pe Nerli (din punctul meu de vedere: cea mai frumoas\u0103 \u2013 aflat\u0103 la vreo 30 km distan\u021b\u0103). Mi-a zis 1400 ruble, dar mi-a l\u0103murit c\u0103 voi mai avea de mers pe jos 3 km. Desigur c\u0103 nu am riscat s\u0103 recurg la un asemenea gest temerar pe timp de noapte. \u0218i m-am mul\u021bumit cu discu\u021bia prietenoas\u0103 avut\u0103 cu \u0219oferul \u00een cauz\u0103. Pentru o clip\u0103 m\u0103 vedeam slujind Sf\u00e2nta Liturghie \u00een aceast\u0103 minune a lui Dumnezeu.<\/p>\n<p>Un lucru pe care l-am observat peste tot pe unde am fost \u00een Rusia (m\u0103 refer \u00een special la capital\u0103) este pu\u021bin\u0103tatea panourilor publicitare, \u00een compara\u021bie cu ceea ce se \u00eentampl\u0103 la noi, poluarea vizual\u0103 este mult mai redus\u0103 \u0219i controlat\u0103, inscrip\u021bii \u00een limba englez\u0103, la fel, sunt pu\u021bine, compar\u00e2nd, iar\u0103\u0219i, cu ceea ce este la noi.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">*\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 *<\/p>\n<p>Urm\u0103toarea zi, dis-de-diminea\u021b\u0103, am plecat la M\u0103n\u0103stirea Pocrov din <strong>Moscova<\/strong> \u2013 unicul punct moscovit de pe traseul nostru, unde se afl\u0103 moa\u0219tele Fericitei Matrona, la racla c\u0103reia am s\u0103v\u00e2r\u0219it un moleben \u0219i ne-am \u00eenchinat cu to\u021bi preo\u021bii. M\u0103n\u0103stirea pare a fi un adev\u0103rat furnicar de pelerini. De\u0219i delega\u021bia noastr\u0103 a trecut f\u0103r\u0103 r\u00e2nd, al\u021bi pelerini probabil trec printr-un adev\u0103rat exerci\u021biu de r\u0103bdare pentru a ajunge acolo unde-\u0219i doresc. Dup\u0103 un pr\u00e2nz m\u0103n\u0103stiresc special amenajat pentru noi, ca \u00eenainte de drum, \u0219i o excursie ghidat\u0103 prin m\u0103n\u0103stirea de maici, am recurs la c\u00e2teva cump\u0103r\u0103turi, \u00een special suveniruri \u0219i c\u0103r\u021bi religioase pentru copiii bosumfla\u021bi r\u0103ma\u0219i acas\u0103.<\/p>\n<p>Frumosul, fra\u021bilor, nu const\u0103 \u00een primul r\u00e2nd \u00een frumuse\u021bea locurilor, nici m\u0103car \u00een a l\u0103ca\u0219urilor divine, ci \u00een frumuse\u021bea sufletelor umane iubitoare \u0219i sfin\u021bitoare. Am cunoscut oameni frumo\u0219i, m\u0103rinimo\u0219i \u0219i bl\u00e2nzi, at\u00e2t \u00een Rusia, c\u00e2t \u0219i \u00een grupul nostru de pelerini, cu care am avut fericita ocazie s\u0103 ne cunoa\u0219tem mai \u00eendeaproape. \u0218i acest lucru a r\u0103mas la inim\u0103 mai \u00eenainte de toate.<\/p>\n<p>Escala nocturn\u0103 la Istanbul ne-a \u021binut c\u00e2teva ore \u00een aeroportul uria\u0219, care a creat un contrast evident atunci c\u00e2nd am aterizat, \u00een diminea\u021ba \u00eensorit\u0103, pe pista aeroportului nostru \u201es\u0103tesc\u201d, unde \u00een sala controlului de pa\u0219apoarte am fost \u00eent\u00e2mpina\u021bi de doi in\u0219i \u00eenarma\u021bi cu automate, c\u00e2ini de poli\u021bie \u0219i afi\u0219e cu \u201eEuropa pentru tine\u201d. Bine ai venit acas\u0103, p\u0103rinte, unde, vorba poetului, ve\u0219nicia s-a n\u0103scut!<\/p>\n<p>Pentru rug\u0103ciunile Sfin\u021bilor P\u0103rin\u021bi ai Suzdalului, Sf\u00e2ntului Serghie \u0219i Sfintei Matrona, Domnul ne-a p\u0103zit de controlul sever \u0219i \u00eendelungat de la aeroport, prin care au trecut al\u021bi colegi din grupurile precedente. U\u0219ura\u021bi, nedumeri\u021bi \u0219i bucuro\u0219i am plecat tiptil pe la cuiburile noastre s\u0103 \u00eemp\u0103r\u021bim impresii \u0219i cadouri.<\/p>\n<p>Mul\u021bumiri cordiale P\u0103rin\u021bilor Pavel, Serghei \u0219i Oleg, Diaconului Alexandru, \u0219i \u00eenso\u021bitorilor no\u0219tri ce au avut grij\u0103 de noi, Arina \u0219i Alexei. Domnul s\u0103 v\u0103 aib\u0103 \u00een paza Sa. \u0218i nu \u00een ultimul r\u00e2nd, mul\u021bumiri Sanctit\u0103\u021bii Sale Patriarhului Chiril, care se afl\u0103 la baza organiz\u0103rii acestor minunate pelerinaje, dar \u0219i ierarhilor Bisericii noastre din Moldova.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Slav\u0103 \u021aie, Doamne, pentru toate. Mai adu-ne la odoarele sfinte ale Rusiei.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><strong><em>Iereu Anatolie Juraveli<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n<h4 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><strong>La Tbilisi<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong> <img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30178\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_1.jpg\" alt=\"Tbilisi 1\" width=\"234\" height=\"311\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_1.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_1-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 234px) 100vw, 234px\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30180\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_2.jpg\" alt=\"Tbilisi 2\" width=\"236\" height=\"314\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_2.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_2-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 236px) 100vw, 236px\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30182\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_3.jpg\" alt=\"Tbilisi 3\" width=\"236\" height=\"315\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_3.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/tbilisi_3-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 236px) 100vw, 236px\" \/><\/strong><\/p>\n<h4 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>La Serghiev Posad<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><strong> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30156\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_4.jpg\" alt=\"Serghiev Posad 4\" width=\"222\" height=\"296\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_4.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_4-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 222px) 100vw, 222px\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30158\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_5.jpg\" alt=\"Serghiev Posad 5\" width=\"221\" height=\"294\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_5.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_5-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 221px) 100vw, 221px\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30154\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_3.jpg\" alt=\"Serghiev Posad 3\" width=\"220\" height=\"292\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_3.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/serghiev_posad_3-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 220px) 100vw, 220px\" \/><\/strong><\/p>\n<h4 style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>La Suzdal<\/strong><\/h4>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30164\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_6.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 6\" width=\"233\" height=\"310\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_6.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_6-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 233px) 100vw, 233px\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30166\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_9.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 9\" width=\"233\" height=\"310\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_9.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_9-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 233px) 100vw, 233px\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30168\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_11.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 11\" width=\"227\" height=\"302\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_11.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_11-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 227px) 100vw, 227px\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30170\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_13_2.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 13 2\" width=\"255\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_13_2.jpg 255w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_13_2-219x300.jpg 219w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 255px) 100vw, 255px\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-30172\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_17.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 17\" width=\"263\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_17.jpg 263w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_17-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 263px) 100vw, 263px\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" wp-image-30162 alignleft\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_1a.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 1\u0430\" width=\"403\" height=\"302\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_1a.jpg 467w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_1a-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 403px) 100vw, 403px\" \/>\u00a0<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30176\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_24_1.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 24 1\" width=\"302\" height=\"296\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_24_1.jpg 357w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_24_1-300x294.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 302px) 100vw, 302px\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-30242\" src=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_21_2aaaaa.jpg\" alt=\"Suzdal 21 2\u0430\u0430\u0430\u0430\u0430\" width=\"726\" height=\"441\" srcset=\"https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_21_2aaaaa.jpg 800w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_21_2aaaaa-300x182.jpg 300w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_21_2aaaaa-768x467.jpg 768w, https:\/\/traditia.md\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/suzdal_21_2aaaaa-585x355.jpg 585w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 726px) 100vw, 726px\" \/>\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00cen seara de duminic\u0103, 6 octombrie, aeroportul nostru din Chi\u0219in\u0103u a fost arhiplin de evrei hasidici veni\u021bi de la Umani, a\u0219tept\u00e2ndu-\u0219i avioanele.&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":30160,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_lmt_disableupdate":"","_lmt_disable":"","slim_seo":{"title":"Pelerinaj la Moscova. Prin Tbilisi \u0219i Suzdal - traditia.md","description":"\u00cen seara de duminic\u0103, 6 octombrie, aeroportul nostru din Chi\u0219in\u0103u a fost arhiplin de evrei hasidici veni\u021bi de la Umani, a\u0219tept\u00e2ndu-\u0219i avioanele. Noi, preo\u021bii mo"},"footnotes":""},"categories":[1722,45,38,1720],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-30183","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-anatolie-juraveli","category-bloguri","category-stiri","category-unitatea-bisericii"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30183","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=30183"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/30183\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/30160"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=30183"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=30183"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/traditia.md\/ro\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=30183"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}